13 May 1999
Took one last look at Tianjin before boarding the K11 to Beidaihe. Arrived some time after 13:00. As soon as I exited the train station, a bunch of touts clamored for my attention. One tout sounded quite convincing; claiming that it was the slow season and offering to drive me to any hotel for RMB 10. I held my position and declined their services, whereby they reduced the price to RMB 5. I wandered about the station and found public transport for RMB 0.50; but they tried to convince me that the buses were crowded and slow. My honest reply was that I had more time than money and promptly boarded route 5 to the seaside bus depot.
Having fun at the beach
Had a late lunch and ambled off to Kiesling’s, the Austrian bakery. Not much was on offer and I shuffled off to the beachfront, where I was intercepted by staff at the Coal Miners’ Hotel. Rooms with a balcony overlooking the beach were available at RMB 100; a further discount of RMB 30 was offered if I registered on the spot. Remember to check this place out during the off season.
Kissed Kiesling’s goodbye and took public transport to Shanhaiguan for RMB 3. Checked into the Jingshan Hotel and toured the nearby First Pass Under Heaven and Great Wall Museum. As it was still early in the day, I went to Laolungtou; the place where the Great Wall reaches into the sea. The fort was sacked by the European coalition and has been rebuilt.