10 May 1999
Spent the better part of the day on the train. Arrived in Tianjin by 16:30 and according to my guidebook lodgings here are quite expensive. First and only task for the day is to find reasonable accommodation.
Started the new day with a tour of Ancient Culture Street and Confucius Temple. Next stop was the antique market on Shenyang Dao. As I was strolling along the street, I happened to comment on the merchandise of one particular stall. The stall owner took an interest in what I had to say and invited me inside for a lengthy discussion.
Wanghailou
My birthday was spent walking around the concession area of Tianjin. First stop was Wanghailou which was Tianjin’s first foreign church. Next stop was the old buildings along Minzhulu. While I was taking pictures of the buildings, one passerby told me that I was in the Italian concession; he also suggested that I should visit the Russian concession.
On my way I came across Liang Qichao’s (modern Chinese literature figure) residence. I wanted to take a picture of the house together with the introductory plaque but a minivan was in the way. I tried to push the van away but ended up destroying the rear bumper. The only witness to my crime was a vegetable vendor on the opposite side of the street. I tried to look as nonchalant as possible and made a discreet retreat.
Glancing over my shoulder every now and then, fearful of an irate minivan owner hot on my heels, I inadvertently stumbled into the Italian army barracks now occupied by the PLA. The sentry guard first saluted me then interrogated me at gunpoint. Had enough adventure for one day and headed straight for the Russian concession. Returning to the hotel, I came across Yuan Shikai’s old residence. There is now a public convenience in front of the once grand manor. People can empty their bowels right on his doorstep. For free. A fitting end for the warlord that usurped power from the rightful president of modern China, Dr. Sun Yat-sen.