18 November 98

        An overnight bus ride took me from Wuyishan to Hangzhou, Zhejiang. This was the first of many bone rattling coach rides, an experience that undoubtedly contributed to my current physical dexterity.  Hangzhou has been lionized in the Chinese saying: There are heavens above; and Su Hang beneath. The Su refers to Suzhou; where its fame is summarized by another saying which I’ll come to when appropriate.

   West Lake

        The first sight that everybody visits in Hangzhou is West Lake. The park has sufficient English signage; so getting around shouldn’t be too difficult. There are official boat rides inside the park for RMB 25 that take visitors to SanTanYinYue (Three Pools Mirroring the Moon); the touts are best avoided.

        The next day I took public transport to Liuhe Tower. Those who read Water Margin Heroes might recollect that Liuhe Tower served as a backdrop for the novel. The region is also well known for a variety of green tea known as Long Jing.  An elderly woman insisted I visit her farm and purchase her tea leaves.  My next stop was Hupao Park. Legend has it that a monk had lived there; however, the lack of water had almost forced him to relocate. One night a deity informed him in a dream that two tigers would transport a spring to his monastery. The next morning, the monk found the spring exactly as he had been told. According to my ticket stub, the monk lived in the Tang dynasty around A.D. 806 - 820.

 

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